Showing posts with label Simplicity. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Simplicity. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 29, 2012

New project: Shorts

Time for a new project!  Since it's summer (90s this week!  Ouch.) I thought a pair of cute, well fitting shorts were in order.  I have a couple Simplicity patterns I'd like to try:

Simplicity 2654

Simplicity 2896

And I also have the new Colette Iris pattern.  This yellow version on the Colette website is so cute with the button trim!







I'll be using some cute black & white 1/8 gingham in the stash:


I had thought I would get to a muslin today but instead I painted the living room trim.  All day.  I'm too tired to muslin shorts now, (and I still have 2 window sills to go!)

Tomorrow I'm going to repaint the living room this pretty "Stormy Cove" blue grey:


It probably seems backward to do the trim first, huh?  I hate painting trim.  I don't mind the walls so much, but TRIM.  Ugh.  So I got it out of the way first, that way I can't back out. ;)

SUMMER.  Loverly Summer.

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Simplicity 1800: Pt 2

I've made progress on my dress from Simplicity 1800:


But I'm stuck at a really silly point...finishing the neckline and hems.  The neckline is very pretty though.
 


My quandry is, the front bodice is supposed to be LINED.  Just the bodice, not the sleeve portion, and that lining finishes the upper edge.  But then there are front and back facing pieces also (to finish the arms/shoulder and the back neck).

The pattern pieces aren't marked to cut a lining, and I didn't decipher that from the cutting layout either.  Which means, I didn't cut a lining and now I don't have enough fabric to do one.  Not to mention the dress is put together WAY past the point of where I should have lined the front bodice.  Hmpho, as Beangirl would say.

Here's what happened.   I'm noodling along, sewing up this dress at a fine pace, it's looking like it will fit, it's sunny, the winds are calm, all is smooth sailing (which should have been my FIRST CLUE) and then WHAMMO.  I'm ready to sew the facings on.  And the "front facing" clearly ISN'T MATCHING.  I was pretty baffled, because I had cut out the silly thing very carefully (also not normal) and marked every dot and cut every notch (ditto).

I dug through the directions, looking for my goof.  Twice. FINALLY I ran across it, where a brief statement mentions lining the bodice.  Granted, I didn't sew step by step with the directions because they're all split apart into varying sections (depending on what view you're making) and I find those sort of directions really disjointed and confusing.

But I did gaze at them and flip through them for anything major before I started.

Rats.

At this point I'm not sure how to finish the neck.  I'm considering drafting my own facing.  I don't have anything suitable to line with and I don't really want to anyway.  Not the whole bodice and sleeves.  Bias binding?  Facing?  Anyone?

Moving on to the skirt...I didn't pleat the skirt (the maternity comment scared me on the last progress post), I chose instead to do a small amount of gathering between the notches for the pleats.  I really like how it turned out:



That pin sticking out of the bodice is where i need to take up the princess seam just a bit, about 1/4 inch at the fullest part.  I probably could have gone down a pattern cup size.

On that note...I used my high bust measurement and regular bra cup size for the front, and then a larger size for the back (because I have the dreaded broad back. Ugh. Shut it, Beangirl.)  It fit right out of the box, no alterations except for that tiny bit that *could* be removed.  In a different fabric, one that's thicker or weightier (like a ponte) I don't think I would remove any at all.  In this drapey rayon, I think it will lie better if I stitch it a little closer. 

Count me a fan of the multi-cup size patterns now!  The side seams could also be taken up about an inch on each side, but that's because I didn't realize there were 1" seam allowances built in.  And I cut about 1/4 outside of that for "insurance"!  That's another time it would have paid to read the directions, huh?

So it's just going to be a bit baggy and comfortable.  Not a fitted, Va-Va-voom dress.  Not that I was going for that.  Ahem.

Anywho. As soon as I figure out a solution to this neckline dilemma, I'll have a cute new summer dress to wear.  One that is more "comfort" than "style" but I think I can adjust the pattern to be a bit more fitted and flattering on the next one, so all is not lost!

If I change anything, it will be to lower the bodice to more "at the waist" (it is definitely an empire waist) and raise the neckline about an inch.

Oh!  There is also a goof in the directions.  At one point it tells you to sew the two-piece sleeves (I think it was the sleeves) Wrong Sides together.  Oops, Simplicity! 



Monday, April 09, 2012

Simplicity 1800: In Progress

I'm pretty enamored with this pattern right now:


I love the multi-cup sizing (need to lay it out over my "sloper" and see what the differences are) and I LOVE the neckline.  So cute! 

I love the deep pockets and the cute skirt and the sleeve options...(cough*Kristine*cough  SLEEVES.)

It seems no one on the internets has made this one up yet.  Guess I'll go in blind!

I have several cotton lawns and shirtings stashed. I'm guessing the lawns are too light.  I have this rayon burnout-y blend too:


It was a steal at $1/yard several years ago.  It's probably appropriately aged now.

Of course all of this is probably moot until the weekend, when I have a nice stretch of time to get started.  But a girl can dream.

Thursday, March 22, 2012

The Muppets: Amy Adam's Wardrobe

Our Muppets DVD came yesterday and I had a little free time this morning to grab some screenshots of Mary's wardrobe (Amy Adams).   I would wear every piece!  I'll try to go in order of appearance (as close as I can remember!)

We first meet Mary in this sweet floral blouse and yellow circle skirt. Mary favors fitted bodices and swishy skirts, with accentuated wast (usually a snappy color belt).  I wonder how many of these pieces were custom made?  The minty green pearl buttons on this top are sweet and unusual.  The placket also has a tiny ruffle.


The next dress we see is my favorite, the seersucker dress.  I'm still determined to have one of my very own!


This was a new outfit to me.  Is it funny I got so excited over a simple top and skirt combo??  This is a sweet grey, white and pink dainty print cotton blouse, with pink lucite or pearly buttons.  Note the "collar" buttons back too.   And the sleeves are sweetly scalloped and I *think* the topstitching is pink (instead of a hem, I think the sleeves are faced).  Paired with another simple solid pink circle skirt.


I think this next dress is probably vintage.  Isn't it beautiful?  I love the ruched bodice and the bias trim with bows at the neckline.  This purple belt shows up a couple of times.  Mary's a schoolteacher, so she's on a budget!  She reuses items!


Only a brief shot of this sweet sundress, but it does show up more than once. Just never a full view. Rats.  I'm thinking it is probably vintage too, those oversized shoulder ties and the colors seem very 1950s.  Love the crossover bodice!  It's like an extra little detail that is easy to skip, but adds another interesting layer.  In another scene, Mary wears it again with a cardigan.  I love that the cardi doesn't quite match, but is good enough.


The next dress had the BRIEFEST of appearances in the actual movie. I could tell it was a different dress, but Mary is always behind a gaggle of cute muppets.  I was so frustrated!  Until we watched the "bloopers" reel. And there it is!!  Just for a couple of seconds, and it's an "outtake" but sooo cute.  Adorable dress (vintage?) and Amy Adams being adorable in it (being silly and stealing a scene she's not actually in!)


Doesn't the green and yellow stripe pattern seem very vintage tablecloth??  Maybe it was a custom made piece.  The dress itself seems familiar to me.  Maybe I have a similar vintage pattern in my stash.  LOVE the "cap sleeves".  Brilliant.

 Another too-brief peek at an outfit. This one appears in a couple of scenes, top half only.  I wish we could see the skirt fully!  It appears to be a circle skirt with extra large polka dots of multiple colors (I spot yellow, green, and possibly brown or black).  Paired with a white eyelet peasant blouse and red cardigan.


Another dress that was impossible to catch  many details for in the actual movie, but that I snagged some good shots of in the bloopers reel.  This was in the office of "French Vogue", when they were trying to persuade Miss Piggy to return with them.  This dress is gorgeous.  Cream lace tipped in red, with a red underdress or slip.  The sleeves are lace only, and I believe it buttons up the front with creamy buttons, but it's really hard to tell for sure. Maybe someone with an HD tv can tell us!

The skirt is not full, and is the only skirt in the film that is not.  It does seem to be a-line though.
 

And I never got a good snap of this dress' skirt either, but it is a dress, not a top.  You can see the skirt portion when Mary is sitting.  I LOVE this bodice, and note that the collar buttons back just like the grey/white/pink blouse above.  Except for the shoulder change (these shoulders are gathered, very 1940s/50s!) and the cute cap or flange sleeve, this could be the same pattern.  (Another custom?)  The fabric looks vintage though. I really want to knock this one off. 


Very sweet eyelet dress, with sweetheart neckline, reminiscent of the seersucker dress.  Once you have the bodice in place, swap the sleeves for a more tailored gathered sleeve and swap the circle skirt for a gathered one. It appears to be lined in red or a very deep pink.  And there's the purple belt again!


This is another of my favorite outfits.  I love the peach color, and the simple dress.  I thought perhaps it was two separate pieces since the peach color doesn't quite  match bodice to skirt.  But in one scene, the belt slips and you can clearly see the skirt/bodice seam.  It's a dress!  LOVE the border print, and I adore pintucks, so the bodice is a win too.  Maybe it's another vintage piece? The purple belt again.


The last outfit Mary wears is in the finale dance scene, and it's one of the most modern things she wears (right before this she also wears a modern dress or top/skirt in blue, but...it was kind of homely, and the scene was "outdoors" at night so the lighting was dark.  So I didn't nab a photo of it).  The top is orange print silk with a crossover bodice and fluttery sleeves (that are open to the shoulder).  The skirt also appears to be silk or satin...it's a modern design with circular shaped side pieces.  I think the side pieces use one side of the fabric and the center front/back uses the other side of the fabric so that one is matte and one is shiny.  Burda Style magazine had a skirt pattern just like this a couple of years ago. 


Not one of my favorites.  In fact, I dislike it a little bit...I don't think it fits the rest of the movie wardrobe.  I like the top OK...not crazy about the print.  And the skirt is fine too...not crazy about the color.  Just a miss for me, but I thought I would include it because it is the finale.

Mary's shoes are the same throughout the movie...at least I think they are.  They're the Seychelle's Fig, which is long gone. Mostly I think Mary wears this version, with the green strap:




But I think she also wears them in this colorway too:
If you're interested in recreating Mary's wardrobe, you're in luck!  Most of the shapes are simple and easy to replicate with a couple of basic patterns.  Let's figure it out!

Mary's wardrobe consists of:

4 short sleeve tops:
--1 puff sleeve floral with ruffled placket
--1 scallop sleeve floral with turn back placket
--1 eyelet peasant, bow/tie in front
--1 silk wrap top with flutter sleeves

4 skirts:
--1 circle skirt in yellow
--1 circle skirt in bright pink
--1 circle skirt in white with polkadot
--1 silk with shaped side inserts

8 dresses:
--1 sweetheart neckline, seersucker, tulip sleeves, circle skirt
--1 sweetheart neckline, eyelet overlay, tailored sleeve, gathered skirt
--1 scoop neckline, bias and bow trim, ruched princess seam, gathered skirt
--1 wrapover bodice, stripes, tie shoulder, gathered skirt
--1 square neckline, contrast bodice fold, gathered cap sleeve, 4-gore skirt
--1 allover lace, button placket, a-line skirt
--1 gathered shoulder seam, center "V"-slash with button trim, cap/flange sleeve, gathered skirt
--1 basic fitted bodice with collar and fold back placket, gathered skirt


Now let's talk patterns!  I'm not going to necessarily stick to "in print" patterns.  Let's just focus on shapes.

First, you will need a simple shirt bodice with a placket that can be buttoned up or turned back (two of Mary's blouses or dresses feature a button trim on the turned back placket).  I have this vintage mail order pattern 1839.  It has two views, one with cap sleeves and one with 3/4 sleeves.  I've already made it here and here.


This will work for every top and most dress bodices too, with a few tweaks.  I happen to really like the fit of this top and I love the gathers at the shoulder seam, which work really well in place of a dart.  But I could also convert these to pleats or pintucks for the peach dress bodice.  The collar and placket work for most of Mary's wardrobe.

Here's a more modern top pattern with vintage flair that could be used for Mary's tops and dress bodices, Simplicity 2501.  You can view mine here.


There's no "basic" collar piece, but I just love this pattern and the variety of looks you can get from it.  You could draft that little scalloped sleeve from the short sleeve in this pattern.  (There are tons of basic top patterns out there, so I tried to pick one that was more than just "basic".)

My favorite circle skirt pattern is New Look 6889 . I've made it a dozen times, but one of my favorites is here.


My favorite peasant top is this Built By Wendy pattern, Simplicity 3835 (I made it here).  It's not as full as most peasant tops, and has that cute band neckline option.  Mary's top has a sweet tie in front, which you could "mock" by tacking on a bow, or you could make functional by adding a couple of buttonholes before you stitch down the neckline casing and running ribbon through. 


Burda Style magazine 9/2011 had a sweet plus size peasant top too, #138, that had a button front placket.  That would be another option, if you can wear those sizes.



Again, there are lots of peasant style blouses out there.   Just find one you like!

As for the dresses, you already know my quest for the seersucker dress (go back a few posts if you're not familiar with that particular search and trial!)  But once you find a pattern that works (the sweetheart bodice is really the important part for that dress...you can swap out any old skirt for a half-circle skirt pattern!) you can reuse it multiple times for different looks (a'la the seersucker AND eyelet dress above). 

Both striped dresses are very individual...those might be harder to replicate.  I'll keep my eye out for pattern suggestions for those (I'm guessing it will be vintage pattern recommendations).

The peach dress with the border print and the "ivy" print dress are easier.  You can just use your basic top pattern (I'm going to use my vintage mail order pattern above!) and then add whatever skirt you like!  Determine your waist length and add your skirt choice! 

I love when a movie inspires all sorts of wardrobe ideas, don't you??

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Vtg Simplicity 2757 ~ the Bicycle Dress


This dress started out as one of *those* projects.  Let me start at the beginning...

I bought this adorable vintage pattern last winter, Simplicity 2757:


Lovely, right?  Scooped square neckline, elbow sleeves, tiny bows.  And in a larger bust size!  Score! I must have pulled it out of the pattern box a dozen times before last week.  Finally, my project table is empty and I'm feeling the vintage dress bug, so I began tracing.

I traced the bodices first, then went back and used the bodice from this pattern that fit so well, to make any additional adjustments.  I skipped the muslin because, you know, that McCalls dress fit so well.  Uh huh.  I sadly used an adorable polkadot chambray that I have been hoarding for this fiasco of a bodice.

Main problem...TOO BIG.  I cut away at least 2 inches from the side seams and that only partially helped.  Long story short...I set it all aside and then Monday had a stroke of "OMG, I am so stupid sometimes" (ha.  You thought I was going to say genius, didn't you.) I had cut away about 2" from the side seams of the polkadot monstrosity....and I had added about the same amount in my "adjustments".  What if I straight muslin the actual pattern?  Presto!  Almost perfect.


I didn't actually  need much in the way of adjustments after all; a broad back adjustment, re-angle the shoulder seam, and move the shoulders in about 3/4 of an inch.  (I really need a 38 bust for my shoulders, but it's not so hard to adjust a slightly bigger pattern).

I did leave off the  waist darts because I wanted to forgo the zipper and just pull this over my head.  Likewise, I didn't fool with pleats this time, just gathers.  My favorite part, the tiny bow at center front:


I'm calling this the Bicycle Dress, because look...not grey polka dots, tiny BICYCLES.  All over.  (This is a Free Spirit quilting cotton called Weekends).

Other stuff...I didn't have quite enough fabric for a hem (ahem, haha!), so I added a cheeky ruffle.

Armholes finished with pink bias...

Inside seams all serged...


Bodice lined in white batiste, except I didn't cut it quite long enough.  Oops.  I had to stitch it to the top of the skirt/bodice seams, and it didn't quite cover them up!  Oh well.  Who's going to know?  (Except me and the couple hundred of you, that is.)


It is SO HOT and SO SUNNY here, I'm melting.  (Not literally).  I hope you're staying cool wherever you are!

Monday, June 20, 2011

Simplicity 3692: Built by Wendy top

A finished top AND two posts in one day!

The verdict?  Cute in theory.  Let's start with the good!


The fabric is very sweet, a vintage, lightweight cotton c. 1980 I'd guess?  My mom made me a blue rosebud nightgown out of very similar blue rosebud fabric in 1980 for a talent show...I sang "Would You Like to Swing On a Star", while my Brownie & Girl Scout troop flitted about behind me in costumes to match the verses.  Wish I had a video!

My piece of fabric was thrifted at a nearby flea market.  I had just enough for this little top.  Actually I didn't have quite enough to do the bodices & lining, so I cut the bodices on the selvedge and seamed them.  I covered the front with a raw-edge ruffle and a white bias tube:


Here's a closer view of the center front, I had to add a couple of tucks too; the front bodice was too wide:


The back, I just left seamed.  No one will notice!


I lined the bodices in white Imperial batiste, and used a bias binding of the same batiste for the armholes:


Simple turned up & stitched hem...


All well and good, right?  Bah.  I made this pattern last year or maybe it was the year before.  And I had a ton of trouble with the bodice.  I guess I never went back and fixed the pattern?  Because I had the exact same problems today!  The back bodice is too narrow, the front bodice is too wide.  The neckline is too high. I added tucks to take up the excess width, but then I get some pulling at the bustline that wasn't there before I added them.  

Also, the gathering is in the wrong spot, I think.  All in all, just not a pattern that works for my particular figure.  But, it's cool and not uncomfortable, so I'll wear it around home.  I did want to share a photo of me wearing it though...  No reason to only share successes right?


I guess this pattern and I are parting ways now.  A shame, as I really like the style.

Sunday, April 03, 2011

Vintage Simplicity 4657 - skirt!

I finished my skirt, the sun came out, I had cute shoes...time for photos!


Here the illustration for Simplicity 4675, a vintage pattern from the 50s:
I really just used the skirt pattern piece for length measurements (plus, I had to shorten due to limited fabric!)

This cute dotty fruit print has been in my stash just over a year, but I bought it on ebay and I can't find another piece of it anywhere!  It's by Darlene Zimmerman (? I may be butchering that) and was part of the "Clothesline Club" in 2007 per the selvedge. 



It's just your basic dirndl skirt, but I love it.  It's swishy and poufy.  Maybe shows a bit too much knee, especially on a windy day, but I have a vintage crinoline/petticoat on the sewing table right now being "altered" to fit me.  It's RED polkadot lace and will be perfect peeking out at the knee. 

I stitched the hem in red:


No pockets yet, but as someone pointed out to me, I can always add them later!  I did cut them out, so I'll just stash the pockets away.  They may look cute on a different skirt at some point in the future too!

My red bow ballerina flats are from Target:


I have them in black too!

That about sums up the sewing for the week  (I sewed on one hook/eye and a button).  We had Saturday school to make up for snow. Blech.  But now we're on the downhill slide to summer...can you feel it??  I can!

One more swishy vintage skirt picture...


Enjoy this beautiful, sunny Sunday!