Thursday, May 15, 2008

BWOF #103

I think I'll consider this first one a muslin! Ha! Excuse the tiny bit of peekage (and my missing head. Haven't quite got the hang of my camera timer.)


I graded the pattern up to about a 48 and added an FBA. I think this was a tiny bit too much. Should have gone with a 46 with a bigger FBA. For one thing, by adding the extra size to the shoulder height, now it's way too low cut (this pic is after I raised the V about an inch!) You can't tell, but it is also a little "flappy" around my upper chest. I could pull that in with clear elastic possibly?

There's also this weird curving hem in the center front. Is that on purpose? Is it exaggerated because of my grading? I checked & double-checked it, and frankly in the line drawing in the mag it also shows this weird curved front hem. I'd prefer a straight hem I think. I added at least 1 inch to the front at CF and decreased a bit of the curve (about 1/2") at the sides and still fell it's too short for comfort at CF.

The construction (no surprise) is a bit convoluted. This top is also "half-lined". There's a cutting line for the front & back bodices about halfway down and you basically line the top with this half-top facing. Weird, huh? I didn't cut that part because I thought I would just turn under & twin-needle stitch the hems.

The good news...I like the style alot! I think it's pretty flattering, even half finished (no neckline, armhole or hems sewn yet!) The gathered band in front is different. I also think the gathers and horizontal dart in front are really cute. It looked good before I put the band on.

I have plenty of this print to remake this top (btw, this cute dotty print was from Gorgeous Fabrics). I think I will start all over again after adjusting the pattern. The Plan: raise the V, take off a bit of shoulder height, straighten the front hem, maybe a tad more FBA, and try again!

Has anyone else made this yet?

Groove Thang

Anna Tunic is a wadder. I added the FBA and fiddled with all the adjustments mentioned previously, but the honest truth is...this just isn't flattering on me. So I'm not spending any more time on it and I don't have a picture to show you. I'm sorry!!

But I do have a good "Plus Size" picture of me for those who are doubting my booty heft. :P

This is me one week ago doing the Travolta with a couple of my buddies at school. Note the one on the right is "Audrey", I am in the middle as "Hairspray", and my buddy on the left is "Flashdance". HeHe. It was Decades Day.

I thought you'd get a kick out of seeing it! I really do sew with Plus sizes (and buy them in bottoms too. Look at that booty!) I just look good in skirts (nice ankles) and I photograph pretty well straight on because of a relatively slimmer torso. Note that I've probably sucked it WAY in, in the pic above because you know, I'm in front of a bunch of teenagers.

Moving on to the next project...I'm setting a new goal that my fellow PR sewists have been doing since January: Sewing something (ANYTHING) from each issue of BWOF. I want to make so many things from my back issues it gets overwhelming when I try to start a project (all that tracing!) So I'm starting with the 5/08 issue.

I like top #103 for a quick/easy top for summer:
The only downside is that it only comes to size 42. I need to start with a 46 at least so I'm hoping I can grade it up pretty easy. It's a knit, so that will help!

I also like #120 top/121 dress:
I need tops, so I probably won't be making the dress, but isn't it a cute style?

I have been hoarding these fabrics (My name is Angie and I hoard all the best fabrics.)


I'm thinking the floral for 120 and the dot for 103. Now I'm off to trace!

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Amy Butler Anna Tunic

The next project up is the Anna Tunic by Amy Butler:



This isn't my usual style. It's a little too tunic-y and shapeless. I'm very hourglass and not a small hourglass at that! So I need all the slimming I can get from my clothes. But this one has a cute neckline, and the best part is that it uses wovens....the pattern envelopes encourage the use of all those beautiful Amy Butler (et al) prints I have in my quilting cabinet!

I researched a little and found a couple of CUTE examples. Check out Stephanie's adorable top. And this one from a PR reviewer is a plus version. There are actually 4 reviews over at PR for the Anna tunic (scroll down for reviews.)

Last night I made a muslin. Yes, the world ceased spinning for a few seconds. Got your bearings now? Ok. I decided on the muslin because AB (et al) fabric is 'spensive. And after the length disappointment of the Fave Things skirt, I'm not in the mood to take chances.

I started with a similar weight stash cotton and cut a straight XL. I didn't do any alterations, but stitched it together (no linings, not even the yoke.) This was a quick and dirty, check the fit potholes muslin. Boy am I glad I did!! There were potholes aplenty!

The front neck/chest fit well. The back neck gaped about an inch on each side of the placket. It was too tight across the back hips. I needed a forward shoulder adjustment, and a full-bust adjustment...there were two darts forming in the armhole. It was also tight across the bust, but the FBA would take care of that. I tried and tried to get a pic to show you, but forgive me, my 10 y/o paparrazi was already in bed.

On the positive side...it wasn't so hideous that I have decided to quit. The length was good. And the adjustments needed are all simple and pretty straightforward (and expected). I feel the top may run a bit small, at least in this size range. Based on measurements, I was pretty nearly a perfect XL with the exception of the full bust.

So I'm forging ahead! I will probably do another muslin (I know. I KNOW.) before I stitch it in real fabric. Mainly because I"m not sure what fabric I want to use yet.

Stay tuned!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Wave to the Peasants Skirt

And yet another finished project. Is this some kind of record? I present to you Simplicity 4605 - the peasant skirt:


I love this one! Makes me feel all bohemian. Only fitting that you wear it barefoot, yes? With kitties winding around your (too pale) legs?


Skirt was super easy to construct, but I, in my supreme laziness, found a way to make it even easier. For one thing, I didn't use the pattern pieces but instead measured them and then tore strips. No cutting! Plus, ripping fabric strips is a stress reliever.

I figured since it is a gathered, tiered skirt and I was tearing strips, it didn't really matter too much to follow a specific size, so I just measured the entire pattern piece for my strips (this pattern is size 18-24). Here are the strip sizes:

Yoke: 7-3/4" x 26"
1st Tier: 12" x 36" (Cut 2)
2nd Tier: 6" x 32" (Cut 3)
3rd Tier: 6" x 38" (Cut 3)

Next cheat: I seamed everything flat, starting from the bottom. This is a basic rule for making your life a LOT easier when doing a tiered skirt. Gather your longest strip first and seam it to the bottom of the next tier. Repeat up the skirt. (I hemmed my bottom tier first, of course.)

I seamed this skirt flat instead of "in the round", which also makes it a lot easier to apply trims! I added some pretty scraps of cluny lace and another cotton lace I had in stash.


I carefully pinned the side seams so that everything matched and seamed the side (you only have one side seam with this method). Create the casing for waist elastic and voila. You're done!

I really need tops...so maybe I'll focus on one of those next. Although I do have more fabric that would perfect for another skirt...

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Happy Mom's Day!



And I think it's time for a new project, don't you? And because I'm on something of a skirt kick right now, I've decided to do this OOP Simplicity (4605 from the Khaliah Ali line.)


Here are my fabric choices, newly purchased & ready to go! This is the Flutterby line by Tula Pink for Moda. (I snapped this shot this morning, and the color seems a bit off to me. Tula Pink's site shows better color accuracy.)


Jen (Tula Pink) has a great blog on her site, so go visit! There are SO many cute variations in these prints, and one I really, really lusted after wasn't available in yardage at my shop. But I am still pretty happy with my haul for the skirt!

I'll be making View F, the shorter skirt. I also plan to change the width of the middle two tiers. When I was purchasing the fabrics, I had it in my head that there were only 3 tiers (thus, 3 fabrics.) I'm wondering if I should root around in the stash for another print that "goes" or just do my original head-skirt with 3 tiers?

I got two other really fabulous Amy Butler prints too...but those can wait for another post.

OH...and Friday was "Decades Day" at our school centennial celebration and I went dressed as (my mom in) 1962 complete with a headband tucked into my beehive flip. I gotta tell you, it was WAY too much fun. I looked pretty good as 1962. Wish I had a picture to show you, I'll see if anyone snapped one while I wasn't paying attention.

My group also won 2nd place in the Decades Danceoff, with our rendition of the Hustle complete with a 4 count Travolta. We were robbed of 1st by the football coach who moonwalked and then dropped to the gym floor and did the worm!! I almost wet myself laughing. I am consoled by the fact that he was probably aLOT more sore than ME yesterday morning. :P