Thursday, July 23, 2009

Burda Plus#402

I have crappy pictures to share! Yay!

These are the plain front trousers from Burda Plus issue E952 (Spring 07, I think), pattern #402. Just a note about this great pattern. It's in the "Plus" issue, but for those of you unfamiliar with these special issues of Burda Fashion magazines, the sizing begins at 44 for most patterns (just like in the BWOF plus section), which is also on the higher end of regular sizes. That opens up these patterns to many more sewists! Here's the line drawing:

I didn't have quite enough of this tobacco twill to make full length pants, so I shortened the pattern to capri's. I had been crawling around the floor looking for something before taking these pictures, so excuse the messy, wrinkly appearance. Fit from the front is pretty perfect:

And the dreaded back view. ;) This one's not so bad though. Other than my high right hip (which I typically ignore since I can't see it), which has a few wrinkles pointing to it. Look in particular at my waistband, which is pulled over 1/4-1/2" to the right. I never realized my pants did that.

This pattern fits marvelously, almost right out of the magazine. I did a muslin using old quilting cotton I wasn't going to use, and tweaked the pattern with the following changes: added a bit at my front hip edge (always have to adjust for that no longer flat stomach. Damn thirties anyway); Minott method for full inner thighs (using Debbie's fabulous tutorial); extended the front crotch 1/2" (the front crotch on this pattern is really short).

After I made the second muslin (in this tobacco twill) I went back and lowered the crotch seam about 3/8" to fix a bit of pulling there. Here's a diagram of my changes. I know it looks like I changed alot, but really these are very minor changes for a pants pattern!!
I used a cute orange floral cotton for the waistband facing (rather than bulky twill):

And I used the same cute print as my fly shield:

I'm pretty excited to give these a try in a trouser weight fabric too! Since this pattern is so "plain" it will be a nice pattern to use as a base for other styles (change the leg cut, add pockets, etc.)

Next up is this top from 6/08 BWOF, in white dotted swiss:

My muslin (which I used a fabric I totally love on, and am a little bitter about now) wasn't much of a success. I wouldn't term it a complete wadder, but I'll probably never wear it so I didn't do any finishing details. I found the chest/bust area to be really snug. Definitely a smaller fit than the last top I made in this size (I would classify this one as a definite B cup pattern.)

I also think the pleats plus gathered side casing is repetitive and not really all that noticable in the finished product, so I'll just be doing the casing. The casing itself is positioned too high for my waist, so I'll be lowering that. I've had it cut out for 2 days, but things are just slow around here this week. Hopefully I'll finish it today!


  1. Anonymous11:57 AM

    I love that I can double dip in both Burdas! I sewed my first pants last year and think I forgot how to do are motivating me again! I love the floral tab.

  2. Really great work on the pants! I am stuggling with pants myself, I can't wait to get a fit that good!

  3. Very, very cute pants. And the blouse will be so pretty with them! I'm often rather sad that I can't wear the Burda plus sizes; I think the patterns are frequently the prettiest in the magazine!

  4. Your pants are so cute! I love the contrasts you added and the fit looks good. That blouse pattern is adorable!

  5. Very cute! Love the contrast!

  6. Your pants look very nice. Good job! Sorry you don't like the top. Maybe with some tweaking?

  7. Don't you love it when pants just fit?? It sounds like you a did or two but you can totally use those again and again. I love that orange/yellow print.

  8. Awesome capris. I really like the facings.

  9. Anonymous8:36 AM

    What issue contains the shirt pattern?


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