Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Simplicity 1800: Pt 2

I've made progress on my dress from Simplicity 1800:


But I'm stuck at a really silly point...finishing the neckline and hems.  The neckline is very pretty though.
 


My quandry is, the front bodice is supposed to be LINED.  Just the bodice, not the sleeve portion, and that lining finishes the upper edge.  But then there are front and back facing pieces also (to finish the arms/shoulder and the back neck).

The pattern pieces aren't marked to cut a lining, and I didn't decipher that from the cutting layout either.  Which means, I didn't cut a lining and now I don't have enough fabric to do one.  Not to mention the dress is put together WAY past the point of where I should have lined the front bodice.  Hmpho, as Beangirl would say.

Here's what happened.   I'm noodling along, sewing up this dress at a fine pace, it's looking like it will fit, it's sunny, the winds are calm, all is smooth sailing (which should have been my FIRST CLUE) and then WHAMMO.  I'm ready to sew the facings on.  And the "front facing" clearly ISN'T MATCHING.  I was pretty baffled, because I had cut out the silly thing very carefully (also not normal) and marked every dot and cut every notch (ditto).

I dug through the directions, looking for my goof.  Twice. FINALLY I ran across it, where a brief statement mentions lining the bodice.  Granted, I didn't sew step by step with the directions because they're all split apart into varying sections (depending on what view you're making) and I find those sort of directions really disjointed and confusing.

But I did gaze at them and flip through them for anything major before I started.

Rats.

At this point I'm not sure how to finish the neck.  I'm considering drafting my own facing.  I don't have anything suitable to line with and I don't really want to anyway.  Not the whole bodice and sleeves.  Bias binding?  Facing?  Anyone?

Moving on to the skirt...I didn't pleat the skirt (the maternity comment scared me on the last progress post), I chose instead to do a small amount of gathering between the notches for the pleats.  I really like how it turned out:



That pin sticking out of the bodice is where i need to take up the princess seam just a bit, about 1/4 inch at the fullest part.  I probably could have gone down a pattern cup size.

On that note...I used my high bust measurement and regular bra cup size for the front, and then a larger size for the back (because I have the dreaded broad back. Ugh. Shut it, Beangirl.)  It fit right out of the box, no alterations except for that tiny bit that *could* be removed.  In a different fabric, one that's thicker or weightier (like a ponte) I don't think I would remove any at all.  In this drapey rayon, I think it will lie better if I stitch it a little closer. 

Count me a fan of the multi-cup size patterns now!  The side seams could also be taken up about an inch on each side, but that's because I didn't realize there were 1" seam allowances built in.  And I cut about 1/4 outside of that for "insurance"!  That's another time it would have paid to read the directions, huh?

So it's just going to be a bit baggy and comfortable.  Not a fitted, Va-Va-voom dress.  Not that I was going for that.  Ahem.

Anywho. As soon as I figure out a solution to this neckline dilemma, I'll have a cute new summer dress to wear.  One that is more "comfort" than "style" but I think I can adjust the pattern to be a bit more fitted and flattering on the next one, so all is not lost!

If I change anything, it will be to lower the bodice to more "at the waist" (it is definitely an empire waist) and raise the neckline about an inch.

Oh!  There is also a goof in the directions.  At one point it tells you to sew the two-piece sleeves (I think it was the sleeves) Wrong Sides together.  Oops, Simplicity! 



16 comments:

  1. I can't wait to see how this turns out. I bought that pattern, too. I love the pockets!

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  2. This is SO PRETTY and I can't wait to see it finished. Using bias tape could work, although it's a little fiddly to work with and you'd have to figure out the corners where the sleeves meet the bodice. Totally do-able though.

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  3. that is, as Amanda just said, SO PRETTY. I would totally do a drafted facing that covers the entire neckline front to back, then turn it under very narrow and topstitch (so like bias but you don't have to try to get around that sharp corner, yes?)

    (I'll just ignore that whole broad back section of the post, shall I?)

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  4. It's a pretty dress, hope you can solve the issue - I like those sort of patterns but I don't like their instructions either

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  5. Honey, lay down your pieces together with 5/8 seams overlapped, and trace that neckline (1) front and (2) back. It's up to you if you think you need interfacing here. Then make your facing about 4 inches wide, leave yourself 5/8 SA on the sleeve side of both these facings. Then cut 2 sleeve facings at the neck. Sew all the facings together( back + front+ 2 sleeves). Then sew on right sides together and turn right side out. You can turn under the raw side and lightly catch stich it down on the inside.

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  6. Yup. Draft a facing from the existing pattern pieces, easy peasy. Lay tracing paper over the existing pattern, copy neckline edge w/seam allowance, draw bottom of facing wherever you wish, matching the width where each facing piece joins. Put in seams, or tape the facing pieces together for a one-piece facing, a la Beangirl's advice. Go wild, and treat yourself to a fancy-shaped facing bottom. It will make you smile every time you look inside your dress. ("Face the facing" with interfacing to finish the edge, if you choose this option.)

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  7. OMG, Angie--Sewing? That's freaking fantastic! It's what I've been waiting so long for! I am sitting on the edge of my seat, no really! On the edge. The dress is turning out wonderfully. Suck it up and make that facing so I can be jealous because you've been sewing and I have not. Then take beautiful pictures of you wearing the dress, standing in the grass with the wind blowing in your hair. Put some flowers in your hands and give us a great big smile!

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  8. beautiful!! i'm loving self-made bias binding right now. i just hate it when the facing flips out :)

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  9. Um, opps, so sorry that my comment about maternity worried you :-(. The gathers look good though.

    I came back to see how you got on with the dress as I have now purchased the pattern. It was not available locally, so I had to buy the online print-it-out-yourself version; there is alot of paper cutting and sellotaping in my near future. I'll certianly know what to look out for when putting it together now.

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  10. Hi! I came across your blog while googling this pattern (not many have made it yet). I've just started muslining the bodice since I had to grade it down due to getting the wrong size.

    I was stymied by the instructions telling you to sew pieces wrong sides together, but as it turns out, that's deliberate. They want you to do this so that you can adjust as you go initially, and then after marking your pattern, tear it all out and re-stitch it using your adjustments.

    *snorts* Yeah. Barring some disaster with fitting, there's probably no way I'd ever do that. But I suppose that's they whole point with these amazing fit patterns. I think it's probably more of a frustrating deterrent than anything else.

    Your dress is looking beautiful. I really love the fabric you've chosen. I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one stymied by the facing and lining issue. I'm considering lining the entire bodice and sleeves, depending on which fabric I choose to go with. I'm curious to see how you deal with the neckline. Good luck working it out (if you haven't already)!

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  11. I've set out to make this pattern with the pieces for size DD, but wait, where are they? I simply do not have pieces 1 and 2 in a DD. What, are we at Hogwarts? Anyone else missing the DD pattern pieces?

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  12. Ok, so here's the deal...if you want to make a DD size you have to have purchased the Plus Size pattern. Nevermind if the rest of you is not that plus sized. Simplicity has designed this awesome system, then excluded a whole segment of the population from using it. How I'm getting around it: I made a mock up of the bodice out of an old sheet in size 20 with D cup. The front appears to fit nice, the back is too big. So I'm scaling it down, the back I will cut on the 16 or 18 lines at the side seam, remember to do this for the back of the skirt too, at least where it joins the bodice. Pattern sizing still drives me crazy, I wear about a 14 off the rack. Good luck aspiring seamsters.

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  13. I realize I'm a year late to this discussion but I'm hoping you'll still be monitoring comments. I'm making this dress for my daughter's college graduation & am in the process of cutting out the pattern now - I did the bodice first. I got her bust measurement before starting and cut the bodice based on that - which is about 2 off-the-rack sizes bigger. Tonight, I read the finished garment measurements and the finished bust is 5 inches - 5! - larger than her bust measurement. I'm panicking that she's going to be swimming in this dress. So before I cut down the bust I need to ask: did you find that the finished dress was bigger than the body measurements indicated? Thank you much

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  14. I realize I'm a year late to this discussion but I'm hoping you'll still be monitoring comments. I'm making this dress for my daughter's college graduation & am in the process of cutting out the pattern now - I did the bodice first. I got her bust measurement before starting and cut the bodice based on that - which is about 2 off-the-rack sizes bigger. Tonight, I read the finished garment measurements and the finished bust is 5 inches - 5! - larger than her bust measurement. I'm panicking that she's going to be swimming in this dress. So before I cut down the bust I need to ask: did you find that the finished dress was bigger than the body measurements indicated? Thank you much

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  15. Oh Chris, I wish I could tell you! I never finished this dress. It was too big, yes, but I was losing weight so I don't know if it was because of that or the size I chose. I'm so sorry I can't be more help! I should dig this out and have another go at it. I really love the style!

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  16. actually, I think you did help by saying it was too big - unless you lost a lot of weight very quickly. :) Her bust is actually a DDD so I think I'll cut down the back then alter down again if necessary, but will cut the rest of it from the smaller size. (She's not here try it on.)
    It is a pretty dress and it's coming on summer again... you might want to finish it.
    I thank you much for your response. Actually, just writing it the problem helped me see the answer more clearly, so I thank you for being a sounding board, too.

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