Sunday, July 20, 2008

Jalie 2794: The Sweetheart Top

I've procrastinated on making this...and I have NO idea why! Debbie Cook's latest version kicked my butt into gear and I decided to substitute my TNT Ottobre tee for Jalie 2794 with this mauve fabric from yesterday:

Since I only have about 1.5 yards of this fabric, there's no room for screwups. So I used a similar weight cream cotton jersey for a muslin. I had cut this pattern out back in May I think, before I read any reviews, so I didn't realize so many people didn't need an FBA.

I started with a size AA, which is one size above my high bust measurement. This is my first Jalie pattern, so I wanted a little extra 'insurance'. I added my usual FBA and rotated the dart into the gathered section at the armhole/bolero seam:

I was really tempted to re-trace this and forego the FBA since so many have not needed it! But I decided to throw together a muslin with what I had traced previously just to see. I think you can see above that I also added about 3/8 at the hip for my booty.

The only other alteration I made was cutting a CC sleeve since I've read many reviews of Jalie tees that complained of small sleeves. Here's my finished muslin:

Not too shabby! (if you ignore my black undergarments. We're all family, tho, right?) About the only thing I would change is maybe choosing a smaller bolero piece. The shoulder is too wide, but maybe that's part of the style? I obviously didn't bother with the center front elastic on my muslin. That should affect fit that much, so I skipped it.

It is a bit long, but this one is not hemmed, so I probably won't change the length. The sleeves are definitely slim-fitting! But they aren't tight or binding at all, and I like a slim sleeve in a tee. I sure am glad I used the CC piece though!

The minor wrinkles under the bust are more a posture/movement thing than a fit thing. They weren't there in other shots.

I'm still curious what kind of fit I would have gotten if I'd forgone the FBA and went with a full bust measurement for size. Not curious enough to retrace, though! I think I'll stick with this one.

Now I have to decide if I want to start on the mauve version now or wait until I have my plan together for the Mini Wardrobe contest. I think I'll trace one of my jackets from yesterday's post before I decide.

Parting shot...Oscar the Pom, helping mom sew:

**EDIT TO ADD** To answer a couple of comments, my muslin knit is 2-way, 25% stretch knit. My fashion fabric is 4-way 25% or more. Also, my personal preference is not to wear a "sack". I think everyone looks better in more fitted clothes. Sometimes I like a tee to be baggy and relaxed, if I'm lounging around or cleaning house or working outside. But this tee is not one of those. I like the fitted look, and I'm pleased with how it turned out.


  1. Anonymous12:55 PM

    Love your muslin! I recently made this top and I'm pretty busty for the rest of my body, and it fit great without any alterations (except for the length). Yesterday I was putting on the finishing touches, and ripped the fabric pulling out some stitching (that was depressing!).

  2. I like what you are doing. I do think that you should check the stretch on knit you are planning on using--does the muslin have the same characteristics as your fashion fabric? I just checked the pattern--it's drafted for 4-way 30% stretch. I tried making this earlier this year and I didn't like the results. I may have to give it another go.

  3. I like your FBA adjustment on this pattern. I made it w/o and it was OK, but yours looks better. I had to shorten the yoke as well as raise the neckline. I think on your muslin, the sleeves still look a little snug. You may feel comfortable because of the stretch, but visually you may need to add some more circumference. I'm looking forward to seeing how all those fabrics and patterns turn out. Going to get it done before school starts? LOL!

  4. Being a Pommie Mommie myself, I love Oscar! Oh the top too! Mary :)

  5. That is going to look great in your fashion fabric!!

  6. Anonymous8:00 PM

    thanks for showing the FBA. I am just a beginning to sew and realizing my c cup needs adjustment in many patterns. I am interested in starting knits--thanks for the help.

  7. This will look really nice in your "real" fabric (it looks nice as a muslin, too). Is the grain on the bolero part going to be vertical or horizontal? (I'm guessing vertical, but I've been wrong before.)

  8. Great muslin - I'm looking forwad to seeing the finished product.

  9. I can't wait to see it made up in that great fabric!


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