Sunday, May 18, 2008

Skirt Loudly.

Simplicity 4236

This one is probably going to be a "miss", but I thought I'd share anyway. I actually love the loud Lilly Pulitzer/Pucci-esque fabric. I have been hoarding this fabric for a couple of years now waiting for the perfect project.

Then last week I was inspired by TriniLove's LP knockoff skirt. Very cute!! Since I loved Toy's finished skirt, I began with the same pattern and proceeded to knock off her knockoff! I liked Toy's idea of increasing the 4-panel skirt into an 8-panel skirt. With all that volume, additional vertical seaming would hopefully be slimming too.
I began with Simplicity 4236, View A. I then folded the pattern piece in half to create my pattern piece for the 8 panels. I did decrease some of the volume at the base of the pattern piece by about 3".

This pattern seems to run rather large, at least in the 12-20 size package. I tried on the skirt after seaming the panels together and it was HUGE! I took in each panel an additional 3/8 of an inch. That helped with fit around the waist, but man there was a lot of skirt left everywhere else. I don't have any full or circular skirts, so I just went with it because I thought maybe I was being self-conscious about something that looked normal (for what it was.)

Before stitching the final side seam and inserting the zipper, I topstitched the seams in hot pink, (not that this print needs any additional interest!) I had to pull out my Singer New Sewing Essentials book to insert the lapped zipper, it's been a couple years since I put one in! HA! I love this book, it has easy to read instructions with lots of color photographs for each step. The only thing it's missing is spiral binding.


The waist is finished with twill tape (I used grosgrain ribbon) instead of a facing or waistband for a nice, clean finish. Since by this point I knew I was going to have fit/enjoyment isses, I used Steam-a-Seam to iron up the hem allowance. That will make the hem a lot easier to sew when I DO decide to hem it, but won't make yet another seam to rip out if I decide to "Fix It".

Grosgrain Ribbon Waist Stay

Here's the problem. As it turns out, my "perfect" fabric for this skirt ended up being NOT so perfect for this skirt. Too much volume in the pattern for this full-body fabric. The skirt stands away from my hips too much. See the little folds by each hip?

Hip Fold

In a lighter weight fabric, or one with more drape, this wouldn't be as noticeable. I also feel like the skirt is still a size too big. The front waist is slipping down as I move around. Still...the fabric does make me smile! (In person, this tank doesn't match AT ALL! The sunset was doing a number on the colors!)


Really, this is about the easiest skirt you could ever hope for. SO fast and easy to make. And there's a simple A-line view too, that I definitely will be making. My next project was going to be the Jalie Sweetheart top in hot pink to match my fun LP skirt, and the pattern is altered & ready to go.

Since I'm not loving the skirt right now, and I have the BWOF #103 pattern altered I think I'll go back and make it up instead. It's definitely a Frankenpattern now!! Look at all that tissue grafting!! :P Click for a larger image.


Any ideas for altering my skirt to make it more wearable?? Keep in mind that I have topstitched all the seams and the zip is in/waist finished. Argh. Still, any suggestions appreciated!

Thursday, May 15, 2008

BWOF #103

I think I'll consider this first one a muslin! Ha! Excuse the tiny bit of peekage (and my missing head. Haven't quite got the hang of my camera timer.)


I graded the pattern up to about a 48 and added an FBA. I think this was a tiny bit too much. Should have gone with a 46 with a bigger FBA. For one thing, by adding the extra size to the shoulder height, now it's way too low cut (this pic is after I raised the V about an inch!) You can't tell, but it is also a little "flappy" around my upper chest. I could pull that in with clear elastic possibly?

There's also this weird curving hem in the center front. Is that on purpose? Is it exaggerated because of my grading? I checked & double-checked it, and frankly in the line drawing in the mag it also shows this weird curved front hem. I'd prefer a straight hem I think. I added at least 1 inch to the front at CF and decreased a bit of the curve (about 1/2") at the sides and still fell it's too short for comfort at CF.

The construction (no surprise) is a bit convoluted. This top is also "half-lined". There's a cutting line for the front & back bodices about halfway down and you basically line the top with this half-top facing. Weird, huh? I didn't cut that part because I thought I would just turn under & twin-needle stitch the hems.

The good news...I like the style alot! I think it's pretty flattering, even half finished (no neckline, armhole or hems sewn yet!) The gathered band in front is different. I also think the gathers and horizontal dart in front are really cute. It looked good before I put the band on.

I have plenty of this print to remake this top (btw, this cute dotty print was from Gorgeous Fabrics). I think I will start all over again after adjusting the pattern. The Plan: raise the V, take off a bit of shoulder height, straighten the front hem, maybe a tad more FBA, and try again!

Has anyone else made this yet?

Groove Thang

Anna Tunic is a wadder. I added the FBA and fiddled with all the adjustments mentioned previously, but the honest truth is...this just isn't flattering on me. So I'm not spending any more time on it and I don't have a picture to show you. I'm sorry!!

But I do have a good "Plus Size" picture of me for those who are doubting my booty heft. :P

This is me one week ago doing the Travolta with a couple of my buddies at school. Note the one on the right is "Audrey", I am in the middle as "Hairspray", and my buddy on the left is "Flashdance". HeHe. It was Decades Day.

I thought you'd get a kick out of seeing it! I really do sew with Plus sizes (and buy them in bottoms too. Look at that booty!) I just look good in skirts (nice ankles) and I photograph pretty well straight on because of a relatively slimmer torso. Note that I've probably sucked it WAY in, in the pic above because you know, I'm in front of a bunch of teenagers.

Moving on to the next project...I'm setting a new goal that my fellow PR sewists have been doing since January: Sewing something (ANYTHING) from each issue of BWOF. I want to make so many things from my back issues it gets overwhelming when I try to start a project (all that tracing!) So I'm starting with the 5/08 issue.

I like top #103 for a quick/easy top for summer:
The only downside is that it only comes to size 42. I need to start with a 46 at least so I'm hoping I can grade it up pretty easy. It's a knit, so that will help!

I also like #120 top/121 dress:
I need tops, so I probably won't be making the dress, but isn't it a cute style?

I have been hoarding these fabrics (My name is Angie and I hoard all the best fabrics.)


I'm thinking the floral for 120 and the dot for 103. Now I'm off to trace!

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Amy Butler Anna Tunic

The next project up is the Anna Tunic by Amy Butler:



This isn't my usual style. It's a little too tunic-y and shapeless. I'm very hourglass and not a small hourglass at that! So I need all the slimming I can get from my clothes. But this one has a cute neckline, and the best part is that it uses wovens....the pattern envelopes encourage the use of all those beautiful Amy Butler (et al) prints I have in my quilting cabinet!

I researched a little and found a couple of CUTE examples. Check out Stephanie's adorable top. And this one from a PR reviewer is a plus version. There are actually 4 reviews over at PR for the Anna tunic (scroll down for reviews.)

Last night I made a muslin. Yes, the world ceased spinning for a few seconds. Got your bearings now? Ok. I decided on the muslin because AB (et al) fabric is 'spensive. And after the length disappointment of the Fave Things skirt, I'm not in the mood to take chances.

I started with a similar weight stash cotton and cut a straight XL. I didn't do any alterations, but stitched it together (no linings, not even the yoke.) This was a quick and dirty, check the fit potholes muslin. Boy am I glad I did!! There were potholes aplenty!

The front neck/chest fit well. The back neck gaped about an inch on each side of the placket. It was too tight across the back hips. I needed a forward shoulder adjustment, and a full-bust adjustment...there were two darts forming in the armhole. It was also tight across the bust, but the FBA would take care of that. I tried and tried to get a pic to show you, but forgive me, my 10 y/o paparrazi was already in bed.

On the positive side...it wasn't so hideous that I have decided to quit. The length was good. And the adjustments needed are all simple and pretty straightforward (and expected). I feel the top may run a bit small, at least in this size range. Based on measurements, I was pretty nearly a perfect XL with the exception of the full bust.

So I'm forging ahead! I will probably do another muslin (I know. I KNOW.) before I stitch it in real fabric. Mainly because I"m not sure what fabric I want to use yet.

Stay tuned!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Wave to the Peasants Skirt

And yet another finished project. Is this some kind of record? I present to you Simplicity 4605 - the peasant skirt:


I love this one! Makes me feel all bohemian. Only fitting that you wear it barefoot, yes? With kitties winding around your (too pale) legs?


Skirt was super easy to construct, but I, in my supreme laziness, found a way to make it even easier. For one thing, I didn't use the pattern pieces but instead measured them and then tore strips. No cutting! Plus, ripping fabric strips is a stress reliever.

I figured since it is a gathered, tiered skirt and I was tearing strips, it didn't really matter too much to follow a specific size, so I just measured the entire pattern piece for my strips (this pattern is size 18-24). Here are the strip sizes:

Yoke: 7-3/4" x 26"
1st Tier: 12" x 36" (Cut 2)
2nd Tier: 6" x 32" (Cut 3)
3rd Tier: 6" x 38" (Cut 3)

Next cheat: I seamed everything flat, starting from the bottom. This is a basic rule for making your life a LOT easier when doing a tiered skirt. Gather your longest strip first and seam it to the bottom of the next tier. Repeat up the skirt. (I hemmed my bottom tier first, of course.)

I seamed this skirt flat instead of "in the round", which also makes it a lot easier to apply trims! I added some pretty scraps of cluny lace and another cotton lace I had in stash.


I carefully pinned the side seams so that everything matched and seamed the side (you only have one side seam with this method). Create the casing for waist elastic and voila. You're done!

I really need tops...so maybe I'll focus on one of those next. Although I do have more fabric that would perfect for another skirt...