Saturday, January 22, 2011

Vtg Simplicity 3430 - in progress

This is totally not my original Vintage Sewalong pattern choice!  The original plan was for Hepburn style trousers and a pretty 1940s-inspired blouse.   I did finally receive my patterns in the mail last weekend and I altered the pants.  I still don't have a clue what to use for fabric for either pattern.  Hmph. the interest of other patterns calling my name, I've moved on for now.  Yesterday I traced and altered this sundress because...fitted bodice! square neckline! RICK RACK!  AND...a little princess seam bolero?  Awesome.  

I haven't finished altering the bolero, but I did get the bodice for the dress cut out this morning.  I used this spring-ish pink and lavender print.  It's cotton, and has a stripe woven in.  I have NO idea where I got it, but it has been in my stash for at least 10 years.  I thought it was perfect for this dress.

Bodice Front:  I had to add 2 inches to the to the front using the pivot/slide method (Nancy Zieman), and I added 1" length.  I also  lowered the bust dart approximately 1" after trying on my tissue and marking bust point.  I had to re-angle the waist dart about 3/8".

Apparently all my fiddling was worth it because the front fits really well through the bust and waist.  This is my "padded" dress form:

Can you see my boo boo in this photo?  (No?  You're looking at that pointy 50's shaping, aren't you?)

Well.  Let me tell you about the bodice back.  I altered the back with 1.5" using pivot/slide (this was a size 36 bust and my full bust is 45").   I knew from previous experience with this era of patterns that a size 16 or 18 neckline is pretty perfect for me, but the bust and back requires quite a bit of additional room. (Weirdly, no additional FBA though).
I also lengthened the bodice back by 1".  Or so I thought.  But look at the side seams:

Well, rats.  I have no idea what went wrong.  I must have "intended" to add the additional 1" and didn't.  Who knows.  At this point I have to decide whether or not to fix this somehow or just scrap the bodice and save the skirt pieces and scraps for a pretty skirt instead.  

Which would be such a shame since the neckline is so pretty and fits so well:

The choices as I see it are, trim off the excess from the front bodice to match the back (easiest), OR, add two strips cut from my straps, to the bottom of the back bodice pieces, trying to match the print and the woven lines in the fabric.   Stinky.  But, probably the best choice in the end since I really need that extra inch.  

Or just scrap this one altogether and move onto another fabric.  The good news is, if I do try the "strip" method to piece back onto the back bodice, I can cover the seam with the rickrack rows (in theory).  

And honestly?  Who's ever going to notice but me?

I hope your weekend is going well!


  1. Why not trim the front to match the back, then add a solid color band all the way around? It'll cover the span between the skirt and bodice, and if you use the same color rick-rack, it will look like a belt that you totally intended. Good luck, really pretty fabric!

  2. Do NOT scrap this! Walk away for a couple of hours if you must, but this is too, too pretty to give up on. You can do it Angie!

    (Did that help?)

  3. This fabric is so pretty, and a great choice for the dress (don't you love finding the perfect use for an ancient stash fabric?!). Definitely it can be fixed. You'll feel so clever hiding the extra seam with rick-rack.

  4. This will be such a pretty dress when you are finished so I want you to stick with it :-) And thanks for posting about your 'boo-boo', it makes me feel better for those times when I have backed myself into a 'creative opportunity'!

  5. The fabric is fabulous. Do you cut with pinking shears? I love the little pinked edges.

    I agree with Kristine's idea - add a solid band - because I'm guessing you don't have enough to cut a new back?

    Hoping to see something new soon :) (says the girl playing on the internet rather than sewing) g

  6. I agree with Kristine's idea... And I also think Debbie's advice to walk away for a couple of hours is good! It's so beautiful so far, and that looks totally fixable... Don't scrap it! Good luck!

  7. Strips covered with rick-rack or Kristine's suggestion both seem doable. The fabric is so well suited to the design and you, can't wait to see it finished !

  8. I love the pattern and the fabric! I really hope you work it out, because I'm dying to see the finished product!

  9. Ha, so you DID do something this week. I like it so far, just take a break. It's almost always worth it.

    Word ver: "desting".... poor little bee, all destinged and such

  10. it's going to be beautiful! Please finish!

  11. No one will notice but you... and over time, you'll probably forget about it, too, especially if it has ric rac over it.

    I say finish it!


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