Friday, February 11, 2011

Vtg McCalls 4115 - in progress

I made a lot of progress the past two days on my yellow gingham dress!  Here is the pattern photo:

I'm making the full skirt version, with the button on tabs from the slim version.  First, here are in-progress photos I just snapped of the bodice for you picture lovers.  Then, I'll list the changes I made for fitting for the detail lovers.  ;)

Bodice front, keep in mind I'm more endowed than my dressform! Note the cute little button-on tabs peeking out from under the collar.

Close up of the cute v-neck.  I'm debating topstitching it.  What do you think?

Bodice back, with the back tab.  I LOVE the tabs!  I can't wait to dig around in my stash for buttons.  White?  Pearl?  Yellow??

Inside shot.  I've been following the vintage directions exactly, and used pinking shears to cut out/finish my interior seams.  This is the shoulder seam with the collar flipped up so you can see the facing.  I used the "turn under and edge stitch" finish for the facing raw edge.

The opposite shoulder seam with a better view of the facing.  Because of my changes to the neck, I had to redraw the facing and it seemed a tad too large.  That was probably a drawing/tracing error on my part.  The facing ever so slightly flares out at the bottom edge.  I've adjusted the pattern piece for next time. 

The inside facing at the v-neck.  I still need to tack the facings down.  I should end up with several tack points to keep the facing in place: the CF, shoulder seams, and under the tabs at front and CB.

I turned under 1/8" and edestitched the facing edge:

I topstitched all of the tabs, although the pattern did not call for it.  I thought they looked better with topstitching!  And that could be one of those things that are "left out" of vintage patterns because it was assumed you knew to do that.

I didn't happen to take pictures of the bodice during the muslin stage.  Because it is a simple, fitted bodice, I was able to use my experience & pattern from Simplicity 3430 to help gauge fit.  My first muslin was near perfect (again the front bodice WAS perfect, needing only a re-angled & shorter waist dart, and a lowered side dart). 

The back had some issues that were similar to 3430 with an additional fold of fabric under my neck.   I must be walking around with a hump back there.  Why haven't any of you mentioned that?? haha.)  I added to the sides using the Rasband book, did a swayback adjustment to remove some length at CB, and then removed that little fold/pouch of fabric under my neck by slashing the pattern and overlapping it about 1/2".  I also lowered the back neckline by about 5/8", which I find I have to do on a regular basis. 

None of the fitting books give the slash/overlap as a fix for that fold, by the way.  Pretty much all the fitting info I could find (in books or online) suggested the opposite...ADDING fabric there.  I did try that and it exacerbated the fold.  My instinct was to pin it out and lower the neckline, so I did, and voila.  Perfectly fitted to MY back.  Sometimes you need to go with your instinct! 

Now I'm off to gather the skirt pieces and pray I have a suitable zipper.  This is another side-lapped zipper, and dang it all if this pattern doesn't give any instructions at all!  I'll have to google  or dig through the pattern box I suppose.  I hate the instructions I used last time.

Hope you're all staying warm and toasty!  We still have 19" of snow on the ground (as of 4 pm last night) after a little melting and settling yesterday.  We ended up with over 25" by the time it stopped Wednesday.  That's the most snow we've ever had here. 

Happy Friday!


  1. This is going to be such a cute dress, Ang! I love those tabs, too! I say for buttons...go RED!

  2. Honey that dress is lovely! You do such nice work. Honest - I just love your style. g

  3. Really, really cute! Love the tabs, and I think white buttons, but what do I know? ;)

  4. Anonymous1:27 PM

    The details are beautiful. Very sunshine-y dress! We all need it after this winter.

  5. Oh WOW! This is going to be AMAZING! I am so excited!!! Hmmm...buttons...I would go with yellow or pearl.

  6. Looks like you got this year's snowmageddon....sorry for you, but glad it's not DC again....
    Have you thought about orange or turquiose buttons, just for a pop of color? Take into account that I have a cold and am totally drugged up, so might not be making sense...

  7. The bodice is totally cute. Love those tabs! The tab detail, coming out from under the collar is a great design detail that I'm going to put in my "design box". White buttons.

  8. Gorgeous - those tabs are cute! I think yellow buttons!

  9. this is going to be adorable. I'm curious to see what you do with the buttons (buttons are always so torublesome, aren't they? so many choices).

    I would topstitch the v-neck. But then, I like topstitching.

  10. I love it already. There are some great details on this pattern which look amazing in the fabric you picked.

  11. Anonymous3:37 PM

    Such a pretty dress! I love the bright and cheery yellow gingham and the little collar tabs are so cute. I would definitely topstitch the neckline and use pearl buttons. :)


  12. I'd use white or yellow buttons, but if you want a contrast have you considered blue? I guess you won't be wearing this dress for a while with all that snow.

  13. It's looking GOOOOOD!


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