Vtg Dubarry 6043 - pt 1

I know I was just posting about something else a few days ago, but while I was pulling out some batiste (to use for mulsins) I ran across this wonderful vintage cherry print I bought off of etsy last summer:

Isn't it awesome?  The cherries are the perfect coral-ly pink and the stems/leaves are grey.  I tried to ignore it or put in the "queue" and tell myself I'd get to it after the turquoise seersucker, but it kept after me.  So...change of plans!  I have 3 yards and it is 35" wide, so pattern consideration was a bit tricky.

I didn't have quite enough to do a circle skirt (so close though!  About 5" short!!)  I decided on this Dubarry, since I had planned to make it anyway, and the yardage factor is right:

A simple sundress, and I actually bought some red and white small print floral to make it later this spring anyway.   Today I altered the bodice pattern.  I used plain old pivot/slide to add 1.5" to the front & back, and after a tissue fit, went back and had to do another pivot/slide for an additional 1". 

 Well. Technically, the width is perfect and the bust dart is in the correct position, and the bust fullness was perfect too.  That's where perfect ends.  The V was OK, and the point where the straps attach fine, but under the arm it was a hot mess!  I almost needed another side dart to take up about 1.5", and from the strap point to the armsceye, another 1" of fullness could be pinned out.

I pinned away all the extra and carefully wiggled out of my muslin, planning to adjust the pattern piece.  That dart is a new one for me (is it a French dart?)  I think it has promise, but on laying my pinned muslin over my pattern piece I was at a loss as to how to proceed.  I checked it against the first pivot/slide piece too, to see if I just over-graded (which I tend to do), but nope.  It was clearly too narrow through the waist & bust.

To be honest, I was getting tired at that point (with no garment yet started and such a long way to next weekend).  So...I cheated. I traced off my last pattern (the wonderful yellow gingham McCalls 4115) and altered the neckline by overlaying my Dubarry pattern.  Here's the new pattern piece:

I had to guess at how low to make the center V, so another muslin is in my future! To be honest, I don't think (once the garment is constructed) that the finished bodice will look all that different than the original pattern.  Maybe my body just needs the additional darts in this bodice to achieve a good fit.  I'm ok with that, I already know it fits!

Coming soon...a 1940s Pink Cherry Sundress.  I can't wait!