Sunday, February 07, 2010

Vintage - Simplicity 1093

Today I found a few spare hours to work on my vintage top, Simplicity 1093:

I made the rickrack bow view in white linen, if you'll remember from last week. Here is the finished top, rather quickly modeled by me:

As far as fit goes, the sleeves fit great, and I'm happy with the waist to hem area. But the bust/midriff area is still a little too big. I think I just overzealously graded this one up. The original pattern is a Bust 31", and I like to start with a Bust 38" or 40" in vintage patterns (I normally have very little to alter with that size.)

I tried grading up by using incremental measurements to add on the necessary sizes, rather than slash & spread my tracing. Maybe next time I'll try slashing and spreading and see if that works out better. This is pretty good though, and definitely wearable. I do think it would be cuter if it were a bit closer fit through the bust area.

Construction was very simple. There are 2 bust darts and 8 waist darts (4 in front, 4 in back). This view closes with snaps in the lower side seam of one side. I left this off, because I could pull the top on over my head with minimal tugging. The cap sleeves are faced. Since I was adding rickrack trim, I stitched the facing down by machine (it was going to be covered by the rickrack). The directions call for blind-stitching the facing down by hand.

The neckline is finished with a bias binding. Instead of turning the binding to the inside and handstitching it down, I stitched it on in reverse so that I could topstitch from the right side. I think a binding looks neater this way (and I can control the topstitching better from the right side).

I trimmed the sleeve facing and the neckline with kelly green baby rickrack. I machine stitched the single lines of rickrack down, but hand sewed the bow on after.

All in all, this was an easy to sew, fairly easy to fit pattern, and I can see a few more of this in my future. I would love to try the pink puff sleeve version! I would also like another stab at this rickrack trimmed, cap sleeve version. Maybe with red baby rickrack on a baby blue Imperial batiste I just bought?

Things I especially love...the waist darts are pretty flattering untucked! Especially if I can get a better fit through the chest. I think this will be an adorable top with a wide variety of bottoms too.

This post is cross posted at We Sew Vintage!


  1. So cute!! I love the baby rick rack. I'm always afraid to use rick rack on a garment for me, even though I have miles of it. But I need to now - look how cute it is!!!

  2. That is a very sweet blouse. I wonder if you're getting a little extra through the chest area because of the cut-on cap sleeves adding in that area?

  3. I love the look, Angie. I went ahead and bought a copy on etsy, in a 36. I, too use 38-40, so grading up one shouldn't be an issue. You may have added a bit too much, because I think (from studying the patterns) it is a bit fitted, hence the side snaps, or a zipper if called for. There is some from the cut on sleeves, but I am not sure it is that much. I love the rick rack, too, now you need a skirt or capris to match. Since I do not wear many woven tops, I am going to try mine in a knit, something with some stability, not too floppy/stretchy, to see how it works for me. I am always carrying a child or doing some other contortion, so knits are easier for me to live in. Now I can't wait to get mine!

  4. I love your blouse...It's so cute

  5. Anonymous8:06 PM

    That's so pretty! I like the blousy effect of the too-big bust.

    Also, the ric-rac is so tiny, I thought it was embroidery at first!

    Very cute.


  6. Adorable. Love the trim. Would like to see the top untucked. Maybe on the next version you can add some shots untucked.

  7. Hi, Angie! I just found your blog and I had to go through the whole thing and check out all of your projects! You're amazing! I sew a lot of my girls' clothes, but they're four. I'm always nervous about sewing clothing for myself. I'm crazy inspired to try it now! Keep sewing and sharing!



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